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Before & After - My 1993 K1500

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  • Here is a chart, but I still don't know what the load will be on the fuse block. The wires running the injectors and most everything else are small, like 16-18 gauge. I have 7 - 15 amp circuits and 1 - 20 amp. That's 125 amps. So according to the chart, I only need a 10 awg supply since it is 18" long. Anybody...

    http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-vo...gauge-amps.htm
    Amps @ 12 Volts LENGTH OF WIRE
    American Wire Gauge (AWG)
    3' 5' 7' 10' 15' 20' 25'
    0 to1 18 18 18 18 18 18 18
    1.5 18 18 18 18 18 18 18
    2 18 18 18 18 18 18 18
    3 18 18 18 18 18 18 18
    4 18 18 18 18 18 18 18
    5 18 18 18 18 18 18 18
    6 18 18 18 18 18 18 16
    7 18 18 18 18 18 18 16
    8 18 18 18 18 18 16 16
    10 18 18 18 18 16 16 14
    11 18 18 18 18 16 16 14
    12 18 18 18 18 16 16 14
    15 18 18 18 18 14 14 12
    18 18 18 16 16 14 14 12
    20 18 18 16 16 14 12 10
    22 18 18 16 14 12 12 10
    24 18 18 16 14 12 12 10
    30 18 16 14 12 10 10 10
    36 16 14 14 12 10 10 10
    40 16 14 12 12 10 10 8
    50 16 14 12 10 10 10 8
    100 12 12 10 10 6 6 4
    150 10 10 8 8 4 4 2
    200 10 8 8 6 4 4 2

    Comment


    • when dealing with electric, bigger is always better. especially when dealing with DC. also, if it is a sustained load you want to go bigger as well. No way i would run 125 amps through 10g wire. chances are you are not sustained amps, so any of your individual breakers should trip before you hit full current pull


      I know industrial wiring, 10g is 30 amp wire, for 125 we use 2awg. granted this is 120-480v vs 12v, but an amp is an amp no matter the voltage. If it were mine, i'd use no less than 6awg on a feed such as that.
      beat up rusted out k5

      Comment


      • Originally posted by underpowered View Post
        when dealing with electric, bigger is always better. especially when dealing with DC. also, if it is a sustained load you want to go bigger as well. No way i would run 125 amps through 10g wire. chances are you are not sustained amps, so any of your individual breakers should trip before you hit full current pull


        I know industrial wiring, 10g is 30 amp wire, for 125 we use 2awg. granted this is 120-480v vs 12v, but an amp is an amp no matter the voltage. If it were mine, i'd use no less than 6awg on a feed such as that.
        I know what you mean, I have 2/0 for my battery cables.

        My factory battery cable was like #2-4, and there was a #6 that ran everything but the starter. I think the charge wire is a #8. If you add all the power wires that come out of the loom on the 5.3, I'd say they are about the size of a #8 max. I don't even see how a 18g wire can handle 10-15 amps. DC is confusing as far as loads.

        In a house panel, the breakers add up to more than the the service size. Does the same apply to DC. If you add all the fuses in any car, I bet it adds up to more that the battery cable size. I guess wattage plays in there somewhere. Like high power car amps. they take huge wires.

        I'm with you, go big. I'm getting a 150 amp relay, and run a #4 to it. If that's not enough, then I give up.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Waffle
          My winch came with 4 ga for 320 amps.
          160 amps, 1920 watts, needs a #8. Ugh, my head hurts... That's a lot of watts... I don't think I'm anywhere close to that.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by 93 Krawler View Post
            I know what you mean, I have 2/0 for my battery cables.

            My factory battery cable was like #2-4, and there was a #6 that ran everything but the starter. I think the charge wire is a #8. If you add all the power wires that come out of the loom on the 5.3, I'd say they are about the size of a #8 max. I don't even see how a 18g wire can handle 10-15 amps. DC is confusing as far as loads.

            In a house panel, the breakers add up to more than the the service size. Does the same apply to DC. If you add all the fuses in any car, I bet it adds up to more that the battery cable size. I guess wattage plays in there somewhere. Like high power car amps. they take huge wires.

            I'm with you, go big. I'm getting a 150 amp relay, and run a #4 to it. If that's not enough, then I give up.
            i dont think the same thing applies to your vehicle as your house. In your house, you won't ever be running everything in your house at the same time. have every light on, something in every outlet running ac, heat, dryer, stove, washer, fans, etc.... but in vehicle, you certainly can be. it is possible to be driving at night running your lights, wipers, heater/ac, stereo, powering your engine, fans, fuel pump all while winching yourself out. So there is a chance you could see near full load on all systems at once in a vehicle compared to your house.

            wattage=amps x voltage, so it does play a roll in it all, just a different way of stating amps. people seem to like seeing watts better than amps. they prefer a 55 watt light over a 4.6 amp one even though they are the same thing stated differently.
            beat up rusted out k5

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            • The guy that built the one in this pic does all kinds of harness building. The main wire feeding the 30 amp relay looks to be a #10. He only has 4 fuses, a fuel pump relay, and the switched main power relay. I see this all over the net. I don't see anyone running big wires to run the engine harness. Maybe they are wrong, or maybe I'm over thinking this...

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              • Getting my stock gauges to work was a pain. The stock 93 temp sender is 1/4" NPT, and the 04 is a 12 x 1.5 thread. They make an adapter, but everyone complained that it suck out so far that the reading was off. I saw one guy took the stock one and milled it down and threaded it to fit the 5.3 heads. So I did it that way. Worked great. I can use an adapter for the oil pressure sender.
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                Removing the over flow bottle left a perfect spot for the ECM. The fuse block fit perfect over the spot where the old pcm wires went through the firewall. Now I need to find a smaller coolant bottle to mount.

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                Made some good progress thanks to Waffle coming over to help. Got the exhaust done, steering lines back on and filled, radiator in and filled, trans lines ran, and then the best part, starting it up. Runs great. It's throwing an engine code. The MAF circuit is low or something like that. Hooked up the scanner and it says the IAT temp is around 230 degrees. That is way off. The engine didn't have the MAF sensor, so I got one from u-pull. It looks like it needs to go back. Still have to make a better air intake duct. The stock one is too bulky. There is a lot of little stuff to do now. It will be back on the trail real soon.
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                • The MAF wasn't bad, the pcm ground that goes to the sensor was grounded to the chassis. Oops... It was an easy fix. Runs great now. I should have it done by the end of this weekend. Might take it to Haspin for a test run.

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                  • Ok, here's a good one. I added a vss to the tail of the trans so the pcm wouldn't mess up the shifts when in 4 Low. There is no vss in any other spot. When I put it in 4 low, the spedo is off and it shifts super quick. How is this possible? The trans tail should not be affected by the tcase. I don't get it. Anyone?

                    Comment


                    • speed is off as your VSS is now before the T-case. so you will be going slow, but your VSS is still reading as if your setup is 1:1, not 2.72:1 that it is.

                      Even on my 4wd vehicles, the Vss has always been on the t-case and usually a switched contact in the PCM to recognize it is in low range to adjust shift points while still keeping the speedo correct since it is on the final output, not before the lower gearing the t-case provides
                      beat up rusted out k5

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by underpowered View Post
                        speed is off as your VSS is now before the T-case. so you will be going slow, but your VSS is still reading as if your setup is 1:1, not 2.72:1 that it is.

                        Even on my 4wd vehicles, the Vss has always been on the t-case and usually a switched contact in the PCM to recognize it is in low range to adjust shift points while still keeping the speedo correct since it is on the final output, not before the lower gearing the t-case provides
                        The speedo and shifting is spot on in 2wd and 4 high. It is about 3x off (30=90) in 4 low. It acts as if the vss is still in the t-case. There are no wires on the t-case or t-case shifter at all. The speed of the trans output should not be affected by the t-case being in low, but somehow it is. Advanced adapters sells this kit http://www.advanceadapters.com/produ...-output-shaft/. I ordered the clamp on reluctor ring from them. I already had the VSS. This makes no sense at all. There is no way that the pcm knows the t-case is in low gear. It must be psychic...

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                        • Sounds like the issue is because it does not know the t-case is in 4 low.

                          With the speed sensor on the trans lets say that when in high range, third gear (1:1) in the trans, and 2,000 engine rpm the speed sensor sends out a signal that equates to 45 mph. You now shift into low range, third gear in the trans, and 2,000 engine rpm and the speed sensor sends out the exact same signal and makes the ECM think you are still going 45 mph. However since the t-case is in low range the vehicle is actually only going about 16 mph (2.72 times slower...or about 3 times).

                          Do you still have the VSS on the tailhousing of the t-case that you could hook up?

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by blazerbrad View Post
                            Sounds like the issue is because it does not know the t-case is in 4 low.

                            With the speed sensor on the trans lets say that when in high range, third gear (1:1) in the trans, and 2,000 engine rpm the speed sensor sends out a signal that equates to 45 mph. You now shift into low range, third gear in the trans, and 2,000 engine rpm and the speed sensor sends out the exact same signal and makes the ECM think you are still going 45 mph. However since the t-case is in low range the vehicle is actually only going about 16 mph (2.72 times slower...or about 3 times).

                            Do you still have the VSS on the tailhousing of the t-case that you could hook up?
                            this is what i was saying, he just said it better.

                            your Vss is before the gear reduction of the t-case so therefore the speedo is not accounting for the 2.72:1 gearing of the T-case when in low range. IMO use the VSS for the T-case and you should be just fine.
                            beat up rusted out k5

                            Comment


                            • This all makes sense. The only reason I put it in the trans was from what I read. Multiple articles said You had to put it in the trans tail. I will hook the one back up in the t-case and see how it works.

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                              • Does anyone have a clue as to why my IAT is reading is so low? It's not the MAF, I've switched it with one from a different vehicle. Mine also reads correct on that vehicle. The temps shown are basically room temp, key on, not running. I checked the MAF temp and it was 74 degrees. At least the coolant temp is right.
                                Would a larger gauge wire mess with values? The black signal wire from the MAF to the pcm needed to be lengthened, so I used a thicker wire to do it. I started looking for a problem because it was throwing a code for bank 1 & 2 being rich. It only seemed to throw the code when I was stomping the gas from a dead stop. I think the rich problem is coming from the fact that I am running a t-stat that runs at 182 fully open and the IAT reading cooler than the air really is. It feels a little sluggish when it takes off WOT in 2wd.

                                [ATTACH]8275[/ATTACH]

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