Before & After - My 1993 K1500

[Ky Mudhunter]

Kudos, on building your own harness from stock! I made mine for the LT1 swap and had to do the same thing with moving the computer from the driver's front to the passenger rear of the engine compartment. By building my own I learned so much more about how the fuel injection system actually worked.

[93 Krawler]

By building my own I learned so much more about how the fuel injection system actually worked.

Exactly, which also helps tracing problems down in the future.

[93 Krawler]

Got the harness done. This is much better.




Let the fun begin...

[93 Krawler]

Dropped the PCM off to a guy in White Oak that will remove all the BS I don't need for $90.. http://lt1pcmtuning.com/ We'll see how he does.

Ordered the fuse block for the engine today. Should work out good. http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46345...RO-RELAY-RTMR/

There is no way I will have this ready for memorial day at Harlan. Looks like I'm RZR bound.

[93 Krawler]

After several hours of running the engine, there was a small amount of steam coming out of the exhaust. To be safe, I tore the engine down to replace the head gaskets and also check for cracks. Bought some spot check from magnaflux to see if there are any cracks. Going to lap the valves in if all is good.

[underpowered]

04 was during the years GM used Castech heads, which are known for hairline cracks in them.

[93 Krawler]

Mine look like this. Hopefully this is a good thing.


Got my clamp on VSS ring. Looks like I have everything I need to get this done. Time to get busy.

[93 Krawler]

I checked the heads for cracks and didn't see any. I did this as a preliminary check in hopes of seeing something obvious. Since I didn't, off they go to the machine shop to be cleaned, pressure tested, and checked for flatness. I'm taking them tomorrow to Performance Engineering in Hamilton. I've heard good things about them. https://www.facebook.com/PerformanceEngineeringLLC

[93 Krawler]

Got the heads back. They said no cracks, but needed to be milled.
Lapped the valves in myself.

[93 Krawler]

Got the the engine, trans, and t-case out. Time to put it back together.

[93 Krawler]

The VSS that is on the tail of the t-case won't work on this setup. I had to drill and tap the t-case adapter for a VSS. This will keep the correct speed even in low gear so I don't have messed up shift points. The t-case has a switch that sends a signal to the PCM so it knows it's in low gear, but the new pcm doesn't have this signal so I can't use it.





My tie rod and steering ram was behind the axle, and I had minimal clearance between the ram and oil pan on the old engine. The 5.3 will be moved forward 1" because of the new t-case adapter is 1" thicker. So the tie rod and ram had to be moved up front for oil pan clearance. Mark, aka Waffle, moved it up front for me. Now I have to watch out for rocks hitting the tie rod. The plus side is I can lower my bump stops some since I don't have to worry about my oil pan smashing my ram anymore.

[93 Krawler]

Got the engine done and dropped in.



The PCM is going where the coolant bottle is. I will have to get a smaller one and relocate it. It should fit nicely there.



This is what I'm using for my fuse block.



Trans and transfer case are in. Thanks to the engine mount adapters, everything lined back up in the original locations.




So far the only things that didn't bolt back up are the trans shifter linkage and the exhaust. The new trans has the module on the side so the bracket hits it. The exhaust should be an easy fix.

[monkeystrong]

This is really cool Kevin.

[93 Krawler]

This is really cool Kevin.

It's taking a lot longer that I anticipated. I'm missing wheeling trips.

[93 Krawler]

I have my fuse block wired, and only a few left to run in the cab. I can't seen to find anywhere that will tell you how big the supply wire should be going the fuse block. It is running the basic engine stuff, but not the starter or any fans. Just injectors, coils, trans, pcm, MAF, TAC, O2's ect... I have a #2 awg running from my battery to a factory junction block just above the PCM and new fuse block. My plan is to run a wire from the factory fuse block that is key on power to a relay that will power the new fuse block, and grab the power from the always on #2 wire above the PCM. I didn't think it would be good to draw from the factory fuse block to power the new one. What size relay should I use and what size wire should supply the block? I'm more familiar with house wiring than I am with 12v auto wiring.