buggy will not start
 

Well, here it is. I have been doing alot of work on the buggy including welding. I recently left the key in the run position for a week while working on it. The batteries still have plenty of charge, but it will not start. I have spark but no power to the fuel pump or fuel pressure. Fuel pump is good. I am thinking that from welding and not disconnecting the battery and having the key in the run position that I have fried the computer:rolleyes: . The relay and fuse for the fuel pump are fine. Can I have the computer tested? I have a computer for the same year of truck, but it is for a 318 5 speed and my truck is a 360 auto. The truck is a 1994 dodge ram. Anybody have any knowledge on these trucks? Thanks, scott.

that sucks man, does sound like you fried something... check ALL of your fuses first... if im right, dont you have some under the hood, in a compartment, those big ones?

hopefully a fuse would have caught the surge.

The only thing now is he needs a hood to look under have you seen this thing

Like Mike said , check and re-check all fuses and relays and then I would put that 318 ECM in it and see if your pump works , it might run that 360 and it might not , but my guess is that it will at least communicate with the pump. Also disconnect the battery for a while and then reconnect and see what you get . Sounds almost like it went into a safety mode to save the pump and injecters?????? just guessing ..... it is a DODGE and well :D :D

Sounds like it is the ecu. I did try disconnecting the battery for 1/2 of an hour with no luck. Gonna try the backup ecu and see what happens tonight:o . thanks for the info.

first line of the instructions for EVERY repair in a haynes or chilton's manual is what? "disconnect the battery."

i don't always do it either, unless i'm welding on a vehicle a bunch... then i do. I bet you will from now on too.

Yeah, I have never disconnected the battery for any repair ever. But with the key in the run position while mig and tig welding it was a first:o :( . Probably the last.

Truggy
 

Can't do it right now...BUT ..I will give you the technicalitys of welding on vehicles soon....DOESN'T ALWAYS HAVE TO BE DISSCONECTED...(ie) current
passage....Nowa

This ecu has been a very hard piece to locate. Looks like it will be a 540.00 frick up.:mad: Hope its the problem.

Why worry about a list of rules as to when you hvae to and don't have to, just disconnect it and be done with it. It's one bolt.

welding
 

The point I was making is that if you know what your doing...YOU NEVER HAVE TO! ! ! ......Nowa

Welding
 

OH and by the way......in 30 years I've never fried anything....and I've welded on quater of a million dollar race cars....Nowa

Just hoping now that the computer is the problem. I ordered a computer for the motor that has capability to be custom tuned so now I can get more hp out of the mods done on the 360. Just trying to think on the bright side. Wife says I broke it on purpose and commented that more HP = more breakage and I reassured her that breakage would be minimal ;) .

well let's here how it works then... teach us.

weld
 

The first thing to know is to never have your ground clamp any more than about a foot away from the weld zone ! ! ! ! ! Your current passage is only
between these two points. If you open up this distance the current can pass through anything in its path. I've known people to ground to the front and weld at the rear of a vehicle...again...anything in its path.....Nowa

If you have the diagnostic port installed it's normally just a matter of hooking up a scan tool and seeing if it will read it. If only certain parts/circuits are fried (I've seen this on Chrysler ECMs before) than sometimes a base level generic ready is harder to use. I know that a good reader like a DRBIII or newer that a dealership uses has the capability of looking at all of the parameters the ECM controls and therefore would be really easy to see if it was trying to trigger the pump.

i thought this was a given... i guess not.

New computer did not fix it. Looking at the ignition switch now, but the motor cranks and has spark but will not energize the fuel pump. When I left the key on for a week maybe it messed up the ignition switch? No idea, back to troubleshooting!:confused:

Truggy
 

Gey hold of crazi429.....ask him for help....after 6 pm.......Nowa

How about getting a diagnostic run on it. Do you know anyone that as a mobile unit, or can you get to an autozone or a repair shop with it?

So many deleted sensors and wiring removed that a diagnostic machine would go brezerk I think.

was just thinking maybe worth a try.

I am thinking that maybe from leaving the key on that something else may have fried itself.

have you tried starting it by bypassing the ignition switch?

hell, just yank all the wiring and rewire it.

I have thought about rewiring the whole thing. I would like to tackle that next winter. Good idea on the hard wire idea. I am going to run a power wire to the fuel pump and try to fire it up. I would do this permanently but the computer tells the pump when to energize and when to stop and the excess fuel bypasses in the tank and recirculates. The fuel does not get bypassed out by the fuel rails. Pretty simple design. Need to fool it!