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Old 04-16-2018, 08:22 PM   #1
93 Krawler
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I built a small platform using 1/8" HDPE for my tools and such to sit on.

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My stereo equipment fits perfectly where the jump seats were.

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These interlocking boxes and tool box worked out great.

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Welded 1/8 plates under the seat brackets to make sure they stay put. Coated the floor with a heavy coat of oil base paint.

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While I wait for the paint to dry completely, I started the frame. This is where the cab will be when it's completely done. It will have a 23" belly height, and it will be 3" shorter that my old rig. A full 12" less wide than the old one too.

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Got the frame tacked together. I chose to use a 2x8 box to mimic the frame on the old rig. This will make sure the belly is flat just like it was. The old rig frame was 44" wide. I wanted to keep it close to that just to keep the exhaust and everything else tucked in between. I couldn't do 44" since the cab holes were 44.5", so I moved them in just enough to fit a bolt beside the frame. It ended up being 42" wide this time.

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Got the frame bolted on now. I'll be bending tube soon.
The front and rear will be all tube. I will cap the frame ends, then drill and weld tube through the ends. The front will be narrow since the radiator will be behind the cab. It's just about time to pull the heavy Chevy apart so I can lay out the drive train.

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Old 04-17-2018, 12:03 AM   #2
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So damn cool...
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Old 04-18-2018, 07:48 AM   #3
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Those toolboxes are awesome. DoWorkXJ (Justin) has a set, I had them at my house for a few days and they looked very nice.

Interested to see how you are going to lock the boxes into place. are you planning on using the built in "interlocking" function of the boxes to hold them in without racket straps or bungee cords?
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Old 04-18-2018, 12:58 PM   #4
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Those toolboxes are awesome. DoWorkXJ (Justin) has a set, I had them at my house for a few days and they looked very nice.

Interested to see how you are going to lock the boxes into place. are you planning on using the built in "interlocking" function of the boxes to hold them in without racket straps or bungee cords?
I will bolt the 1st crate to the floor, and also use a ratchet strap to hold the top boxes in place. I haven't decided how to hold the toolbox down yet. I will definitely make sure they are secure in case of a rollover.

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Old 04-20-2018, 10:21 AM   #5
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looking great and a lot of progress for sure. I went out a week later and bought 2 of the top boxes. All my tools fit in these with exception of my deep wells. They are really heavy per box...like I believe 75 to 100 lbs each. The interlocks are great and I am securing with straps and tie down points.

Building a new rig is time consuming, but very rewarding as well. If you need some help tearing apart or bending tube let me know. If I have the time I will help. Got a lot going on here as well with my rebuild and Zach's new goodies. We will be ready for rush though.
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Old 05-09-2018, 09:00 PM   #6
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No turning back now... Going use some of the old tube for rock sliders. The drive train will be coming out soon.

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Old 05-10-2018, 12:53 PM   #7
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nice progress!
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Old 05-12-2018, 05:52 PM   #8
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I needed to get some key measurements for the drivetrain off the old truck so while I had it up in the air, I started taking non-essential things off that I didn't need to move back and forth out of the garage.
Just for kicks I've been weighing things off the old truck to see what they weigh. I knew the old doors were heavy by taking them on and off. They weighed 103 lb. After lightening the new doors a little they weighed 68 pounds. I weighed the old winch plate and it weighed 52 lb. I'm quickly seeing why weighed so much...
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Old 07-19-2018, 02:02 PM   #9
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Worked on the rig a little while I was waiting on rzr parts.
I didn't like the way the frame was hanging down so I notched it to fit the cab better. Gained 2 3/8" by doing it. That will subtract from the total height. It was a lot of work, but well worth it. Still got the other side to do.

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Old 07-19-2018, 05:44 PM   #10
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Frame rails look great Kevin. That height reduction will also help lower your center of gravity.

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Old 08-05-2018, 01:13 PM   #11
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Just about done with the main frame and rock siders. I used some of the 2 1/8 x .188 DOM from the old rig for the sliders. I pushed the support tubes through the box where the exo will come down. It was a lot of work, but should be really strong.

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Old 08-07-2018, 04:38 PM   #12
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Got the other side done. Ready to bend some tube. Click image for larger version

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Old 08-12-2018, 09:28 PM   #13
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Got the rear hoop done. This is the hardest one to bend in my opinion. I like to keep gaps tight so it has 13 bends in it. The tube is behind the cab so the pic from the back is deceiving. Going to work on the back next.
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Old 08-12-2018, 09:40 PM   #14
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I'm excited to see the progress, let me know when you need a hand, I will help you, I wanna see this rig complete.
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:06 AM   #15
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Looks really good Kevin! CAN'T WAIT to see more progress!
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Old 08-14-2018, 04:11 PM   #16
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I wanna see this rig complete.
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CAN'T WAIT to see more progress!
Not more than I do. I miss my big ass Chevy... But can't wait for my SS10.
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Old 08-15-2018, 10:17 AM   #17
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Looking awesome Kevin, keep the updates coming .

Are you going to keep the engine in "OEM" location to keep the 117" wheelbase?
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Old 08-26-2018, 09:03 PM   #18
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Made some progress on the build this weekend. Still debating on how to do the front.Click image for larger version

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Old 08-27-2018, 12:51 AM   #19
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Ooo, I like that profile a lot...
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Old 08-27-2018, 11:21 AM   #20
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Awesome Kevin!

Are you expecting to remove/rework any of the cab floor to keep a relatively flat belly?
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Old 08-27-2018, 11:54 AM   #21
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Awesome Kevin!

Are you expecting to remove/rework any of the cab floor to keep a relatively flat belly?
The main reason I ditched the S10 frame was to duplicate the full size frame so I could keep the belly flat. The area under the S10 is really close to the full size so I shouldn't have to do anything to the floor pan. How it actually works out is another thing.
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Old 08-27-2018, 12:36 PM   #22
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I always liked the old rig better when it had the fenders on it, so I'm thinking about leaving them on this time. The S10 is a little wider in the front than the big rig was. I think visibility out the front is a lot better in the S10, so do I dove the front or leave it straight. I originally wanted to do all tube in the front, but I don't think it would look right. The fenders will need to be cut along the silver/teal line so there won't be much fender left. The factory grill will be cut to remove the headlights. Since the radiator will be behind the cab, the approach angle should be good.
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Old 09-05-2018, 06:15 PM   #23
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The 241/205 double is what I run. Highly recommend it.

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Old 09-09-2018, 02:14 PM   #24
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I'm as far as i can go on the rear without the axle in. Still have some bracing to do after the shocks and axle are in. Time to work on the roof and sides.
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Old 09-18-2018, 06:41 PM   #25
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I ordered my 16" ORI's today. That sure hurt...

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