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#1 |
>>>PMC<<<
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I built a small platform using 1/8" HDPE for my tools and such to sit on.
My stereo equipment fits perfectly where the jump seats were. These interlocking boxes and tool box worked out great. Welded 1/8 plates under the seat brackets to make sure they stay put. Coated the floor with a heavy coat of oil base paint. While I wait for the paint to dry completely, I started the frame. This is where the cab will be when it's completely done. It will have a 23" belly height, and it will be 3" shorter that my old rig. A full 12" less wide than the old one too. Got the frame tacked together. I chose to use a 2x8 box to mimic the frame on the old rig. This will make sure the belly is flat just like it was. The old rig frame was 44" wide. I wanted to keep it close to that just to keep the exhaust and everything else tucked in between. I couldn't do 44" since the cab holes were 44.5", so I moved them in just enough to fit a bolt beside the frame. It ended up being 42" wide this time. Got the frame bolted on now. I'll be bending tube soon. ![]() The front and rear will be all tube. I will cap the frame ends, then drill and weld tube through the ends. The front will be narrow since the radiator will be behind the cab. It's just about time to pull the heavy Chevy apart so I can lay out the drive train. Last edited by 93 Krawler; 04-16-2018 at 08:50 PM. |
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#2 |
Mechanical Animal
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Location: Beechmont
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So damn cool...
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#3 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Mt Washington
Posts: 188
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Those toolboxes are awesome. DoWorkXJ (Justin) has a set, I had them at my house for a few days and they looked very nice.
Interested to see how you are going to lock the boxes into place. are you planning on using the built in "interlocking" function of the boxes to hold them in without racket straps or bungee cords? |
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#4 | |
>>>PMC<<<
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Quote:
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#5 |
Ah Unz ze President!
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looking great and a lot of progress for sure. I went out a week later and bought 2 of the top boxes. All my tools fit in these with exception of my deep wells. They are really heavy per box...like I believe 75 to 100 lbs each. The interlocks are great and I am securing with straps and tie down points.
Building a new rig is time consuming, but very rewarding as well. If you need some help tearing apart or bending tube let me know. If I have the time I will help. Got a lot going on here as well with my rebuild and Zach's new goodies. We will be ready for rush though.
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Keep them on all 4's |
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#6 |
>>>PMC<<<
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No turning back now... Going use some of the old tube for rock sliders. The drive train will be coming out soon.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Last edited by 93 Krawler; 05-10-2018 at 01:52 PM. |
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#8 |
>>>PMC<<<
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I needed to get some key measurements for the drivetrain off the old truck so while I had it up in the air, I started taking non-essential things off that I didn't need to move back and forth out of the garage.
Just for kicks I've been weighing things off the old truck to see what they weigh. I knew the old doors were heavy by taking them on and off. They weighed 103 lb. After lightening the new doors a little they weighed 68 pounds. I weighed the old winch plate and it weighed 52 lb. I'm quickly seeing why weighed so much... Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk |
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#9 |
>>>PMC<<<
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Worked on the rig a little while I was waiting on rzr parts.
I didn't like the way the frame was hanging down so I notched it to fit the cab better. Gained 2 3/8" by doing it. That will subtract from the total height. It was a lot of work, but well worth it. Still got the other side to do. ![]() |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Mt Washington
Posts: 188
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Frame rails look great Kevin. That height reduction will also help lower your center of gravity.
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#11 |
>>>PMC<<<
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Just about done with the main frame and rock siders. I used some of the 2 1/8 x .188 DOM from the old rig for the sliders. I pushed the support tubes through the box where the exo will come down. It was a lot of work, but should be really strong.
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#13 |
>>>PMC<<<
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Got the rear hoop done. This is the hardest one to bend in my opinion. I like to keep gaps tight so it has 13 bends in it. The tube is behind the cab so the pic from the back is deceiving. Going to work on the back next.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Last edited by 93 Krawler; 08-12-2018 at 09:34 PM. |
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#14 |
Adrenaline Junkie
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I'm excited to see the progress, let me know when you need a hand, I will help you, I wanna see this rig complete.
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No need for a Winch...You just have to make it !! |
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#16 |
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#17 |
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ross, OH
Posts: 200
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Looking awesome Kevin, keep the updates coming
![]() Are you going to keep the engine in "OEM" location to keep the 117" wheelbase?
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1985 4runner "Redneck Gigalo" |
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#19 |
Mechanical Animal
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Ooo, I like that profile a lot...
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DIRTY DEEDS, DONE DIRT CHEAP
Whatever doesn't kill you makes you stranger |
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#20 |
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ross, OH
Posts: 200
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Awesome Kevin!
![]() Are you expecting to remove/rework any of the cab floor to keep a relatively flat belly?
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1985 4runner "Redneck Gigalo" |
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#21 |
>>>PMC<<<
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The main reason I ditched the S10 frame was to duplicate the full size frame so I could keep the belly flat. The area under the S10 is really close to the full size so I shouldn't have to do anything to the floor pan. How it actually works out is another thing.
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#22 |
>>>PMC<<<
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I always liked the old rig better when it had the fenders on it, so I'm thinking about leaving them on this time. The S10 is a little wider in the front than the big rig was. I think visibility out the front is a lot better in the S10, so do I dove the front or leave it straight. I originally wanted to do all tube in the front, but I don't think it would look right. The fenders will need to be cut along the silver/teal line so there won't be much fender left. The factory grill will be cut to remove the headlights. Since the radiator will be behind the cab, the approach angle should be good.
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#23 |
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ross, OH
Posts: 200
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The 241/205 double is what I run. Highly recommend it.
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1985 4runner "Redneck Gigalo" |
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#24 |
>>>PMC<<<
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I'm as far as i can go on the rear without the axle in. Still have some bracing to do after the shocks and axle are in. Time to work on the roof and sides.
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