Suspension tubing question

carwash · 08-25-2011, 09:36 PM

wow... that's a 5 year old pirate thread, funny.

this is a much argued topic... and people will swear on their lives that their answer is right. use what works for you and what you have on hand or available to you.

myself, no sleeving for me. I will only use a solid wall tube. it's stronger. the air gap, no matter how slight, opens the door for failure of the tubing. If you could get a tube to slide into another with ZERO tolerance and gap, then it might be close, but still not as strong. you'd have to have an insane press to get it that tube in there, and the one yer sliding it into would have to have been bored to an exact dimension. Any discrepency would allow for a failure point.

Don't buy 2 pieces of tube, just buy one in the size you want and never look back. Then again, I'm no engineer, I just have some real world experience. There's reasons I run .500 wall lowers on my rigs...

nshefbuch · 08-25-2011, 10:09 PM

wow, i didn't think this thread would be this detailed. i watch xtreme all the time and i actually have learned some things from ian. he just did this on his supension arms for the current buggy he is building on that search and restore project. i've seen him use this method on steering links as well on his own show.

on his blazer solid axle rig he was working i noticed another part i didn't think was safe. on his drag link bar he has it bolting on top of the tie rod bar on the same knuckle(passenger side) using the same long ass bolt. to me it looked like the sheer point on the bolt would be moved to the distal end and from looks looked like it would snap pretty easy.

cincygman · 09-02-2011, 07:43 AM

I think it all has to do with the angle of the dangle............

boomhauer · 09-02-2011, 01:22 PM

as redriverranger can testify to.... i am lost. tooo many big words for my little brain. now on the other hand, if their were some naked girls in there i might understand a little more..lol

rwells · 09-05-2011, 04:12 PM

If Im mounting shocks to rearend i use 2.250 dia. 7075 solid alu. on lowers and if mounting shocks to arms I use 2.250 dia. with .375 wall chromoly tubing and have heat treated for strength. In my opinion in time the steel arms no mater how thick will bend.

08-25-2011, 09:36 PM	#1
carwash pimpin' IS easy Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Union, KY Posts: 3,344 Images: 605	wow... that's a 5 year old pirate thread, funny. this is a much argued topic... and people will swear on their lives that their answer is right. use what works for you and what you have on hand or available to you. myself, no sleeving for me. I will only use a solid wall tube. it's stronger. the air gap, no matter how slight, opens the door for failure of the tubing. If you could get a tube to slide into another with ZERO tolerance and gap, then it might be close, but still not as strong. you'd have to have an insane press to get it that tube in there, and the one yer sliding it into would have to have been bored to an exact dimension. Any discrepency would allow for a failure point. Don't buy 2 pieces of tube, just buy one in the size you want and never look back. Then again, I'm no engineer, I just have some real world experience. There's reasons I run .500 wall lowers on my rigs... __________________

09-02-2011, 07:43 AM	#3
cincygman Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Pleasant Run Farms (near Fairfield) Posts: 378	I think it all has to do with the angle of the dangle............ __________________ Romans 7-8

09-02-2011, 01:22 PM	#4
boomhauer Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 188	as redriverranger can testify to.... i am lost. tooo many big words for my little brain. now on the other hand, if their were some naked girls in there i might understand a little more..lol __________________ 95 yj, fresh fuel injected 302, c-6, twin sticked 205, 3 linked high pinion d60 front, double trianulated 4 linked 14 bolt rear (all aluminum links) locked both ends, 4:56 gears, full hydro steering, high steer, 4 wheel discs, 16" 2.5 fox air shocks, 39.5" irok's. just finishing a full frame-up redo thanks to a great friend and one knowledgable(sp?) s.o.b casey cravens for without him this could not have been done in such a short time and done right! LOOK OUT "WHITEY" HERE I COME!!!

08-25-2011, 10:09 PM	#2
nshefbuch Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: piqua, ohio Posts: 76	wow, i didn't think this thread would be this detailed. i watch xtreme all the time and i actually have learned some things from ian. he just did this on his supension arms for the current buggy he is building on that search and restore project. i've seen him use this method on steering links as well on his own show. on his blazer solid axle rig he was working i noticed another part i didn't think was safe. on his drag link bar he has it bolting on top of the tie rod bar on the same knuckle(passenger side) using the same long ass bolt. to me it looked like the sheer point on the bolt would be moved to the distal end and from looks looked like it would snap pretty easy.

09-05-2011, 04:12 PM	#5
rwells Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: winchester, ky. Posts: 4	If Im mounting shocks to rearend i use 2.250 dia. 7075 solid alu. on lowers and if mounting shocks to arms I use 2.250 dia. with .375 wall chromoly tubing and have heat treated for strength. In my opinion in time the steel arms no mater how thick will bend.