gremlins in my blazer...

jwend · 02-24-2012, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cincygman

Have you tried turning the key on, without starting the engine, then off, three or four times to see if it primes the system? And really, starting fluid on a gas engine? Not good at all........

I knew that on a diesel starting fluid is bad.. real bad.. but gas too? Then what good is it?

Flxratd · 02-24-2012, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwend

I knew that on a diesel starting fluid is bad.. real bad.. but gas too? Then what good is it?

beading up tires

GPER · 02-24-2012, 09:58 AM

I use ether for the first start of the year on my lawn mower, and snow blower if it doesn't start after the 3-4 pull. The snow blower is 30 plus and the mower is 28 years old.

We use ether when needed on diesel engines, always use in small amounts and don't heat the motor after it has been shot with ether. You can ether lock a motor.

krawlin85toy · 02-24-2012, 10:12 AM

have you ran a scanner across the ecm, had that before and found it to be a coolant temp sensor. it read a higher temp even when the temp outside was cold.
Mine read 80 deg. and temp outside was 36 deg.once the engine was warm it was fine. my two cents on this...

blazerbrad · 02-24-2012, 12:05 PM

I believe the issue with ether on a gas engine is in regards to it being a modern version with some sort of multiport fuel injection. Same issue on diesels. The air intake on these only carries air, not an air and fuel mixture like an older carb or TBI mixture, with the injectors squirting fuel into the cylinders only at very specific intervals. When you spray ether into the air intake it basically injects a flammable mixture into the cylinders whenever the intake valves are open and cause issues like pre-detonation.

The other potential issue on diesels is the glow plugs or grid heaters igniting the ether, which can really cause issues. I have used ether several times on my diesel but always manually disconnect the power feed to the glow plugs to make sure they don't come on.

carwash · 02-24-2012, 12:14 PM

Put a manual fuel pressure gauge on the system. Get it started, let it run till you get consistent fuel pressure, then shut it off and see if the system bleeds pressure off. The fuel pump check valve in that system shouldn't leak off any more than 10 psi within 10 minutes. If it bleeds off that much in 10 minutes, then you have a bad check valve in the fuel pump, meaning the system is losing it's prime every time it sits. Therefore that pump has to work like crazy to get fuel to your plenum before it will fire.

Just one possibility.

Coppertop · 02-24-2012, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flxratd

beading up tires

Yep,it's a bomb...

Please do not try this at home.(Standard Disclaimer)

Nick

02-24-2012, 11:02 PM

Na I don't need a mechanic I need a new car! Shoulda kept my 90 sami lol, iv got a new fuel tank with a new pump in it for 150 at a junk yard ever found the receipt for both inside the blazer lol. I also pulled the entire wiring harness that runs all the way back to pump n lights. So tomorrow I'm gonna drop the whole tank and swap it all out. Any pointers to doing this swapp or tricks?... never done a chevy pump just my wrangler 89cj.

02-24-2012, 11:07 PM

By the way I picked up a fp regulator 50 bucks new... is it gonna be a ***** to put in?

02-25-2012, 05:34 PM

No I'm not. Hard startin is only two thinks, fuel pump or reg. I did the pump today. Didn't help. So now I'm doing regulator. Plus a lot of these parts were due for a change any how.

02-24-2012, 09:58 AM	#3
GPER Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Kettering, Ohio Posts: 811	I use ether for the first start of the year on my lawn mower, and snow blower if it doesn't start after the 3-4 pull. The snow blower is 30 plus and the mower is 28 years old. We use ether when needed on diesel engines, always use in small amounts and don't heat the motor after it has been shot with ether. You can ether lock a motor. Last edited by GPER; 02-24-2012 at 12:21 PM.

02-24-2012, 12:14 PM	#6
carwash pimpin' IS easy Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Union, KY Posts: 3,344 Images: 605	Put a manual fuel pressure gauge on the system. Get it started, let it run till you get consistent fuel pressure, then shut it off and see if the system bleeds pressure off. The fuel pump check valve in that system shouldn't leak off any more than 10 psi within 10 minutes. If it bleeds off that much in 10 minutes, then you have a bad check valve in the fuel pump, meaning the system is losing it's prime every time it sits. Therefore that pump has to work like crazy to get fuel to your plenum before it will fire. Just one possibility. __________________

02-24-2012, 10:12 AM	#4
krawlin85toy Join Date: May 2007 Location: Hamilton Posts: 265 Images: 76	have you ran a scanner across the ecm, had that before and found it to be a coolant temp sensor. it read a higher temp even when the temp outside was cold. Mine read 80 deg. and temp outside was 36 deg.once the engine was warm it was fine. my two cents on this...

02-24-2012, 12:05 PM	#5
blazerbrad - CORE Member - Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 831 Images: 6	I believe the issue with ether on a gas engine is in regards to it being a modern version with some sort of multiport fuel injection. Same issue on diesels. The air intake on these only carries air, not an air and fuel mixture like an older carb or TBI mixture, with the injectors squirting fuel into the cylinders only at very specific intervals. When you spray ether into the air intake it basically injects a flammable mixture into the cylinders whenever the intake valves are open and cause issues like pre-detonation. The other potential issue on diesels is the glow plugs or grid heaters igniting the ether, which can really cause issues. I have used ether several times on my diesel but always manually disconnect the power feed to the glow plugs to make sure they don't come on.

02-24-2012, 11:02 PM	#10
xplorer55 Guest Posts: n/a	Na I don't need a mechanic I need a new car! Shoulda kept my 90 sami lol, iv got a new fuel tank with a new pump in it for 150 at a junk yard ever found the receipt for both inside the blazer lol. I also pulled the entire wiring harness that runs all the way back to pump n lights. So tomorrow I'm gonna drop the whole tank and swap it all out. Any pointers to doing this swapp or tricks?... never done a chevy pump just my wrangler 89cj.

02-24-2012, 11:07 PM	#11
xplorer55 Guest Posts: n/a	By the way I picked up a fp regulator 50 bucks new... is it gonna be a ***** to put in?

02-25-2012, 05:34 PM	#13
xplorer55 Guest Posts: n/a	No I'm not. Hard startin is only two thinks, fuel pump or reg. I did the pump today. Didn't help. So now I'm doing regulator. Plus a lot of these parts were due for a change any how.